Apr 4, 2022
8 min read
A Local Guide to Paris
As her Instagram bio reads, Juliette Premmereur is a Parisian by birth, New Yorker by nature, which gives her a pretty sharp take on all things food, art, design, music, literature and culture. And, it makes her the perfect woman to pen a guide to Paris for us.
She was born and raised in the French capital, before moving to NYC to study art history and work as a contemporary art dealer. Now, she’s based in London, leading social for
Amazon Prime Video, where she works on all new TV shows and movies launching in France.
When she’s not creating content for Amazon, Juliette spends her time looking for inspiration everywhere she travels. She’s also a dedicated noodle enthusiast, with a
whole account dedicated to her quest to find the best noodles around the world. A mission we are fully on board with.
Not only does she know the best place to find Japanese soba in Paris, she’s also got great tips on where to get your yoga workout in, the coolest creative hotel to stay, where the locals party and, of course, multiple options for some essential Parisian pastries. There’s no better woman to guide us around the French capital.
As our guide to Paris, what are your hotel tips?
If you want to splurge, stay at the newly redone
Hotel Lutetia on the left bank in Sèvres Babylone. It’s an incredibly beautiful Art Nouveau building built in 1910, which used to host art world celebrities including Picasso and Peggy Guggenheim. Ask for a room with terrace facing Boulevard Raspail for a view of the Eiffel Tower. It’s also right across the street from Le Bon Marché and near St. Germain, so an ideal shopping location.
For a trendier spot, visit the newly opened
Soho House in Paris. There, you’re guaranteed to run into the international creative elite, while having a signature Picante or Soho Mule. The rooms are comfortable and filled with contemporary art, and the neighborhood is full of cool bars and restaurants.
Where should we go to eat in Paris?
One of my favorite local restaurants is
Au Passage. Trust them (and me) and order the whole menu of small plates to share and a bottle of organic wine that you’ve never heard of. It’s a great spot for a date, too.
For the best value tasting menu in Paris – a steal at 80 euros – reserve
Le Chateaubriand. They always serve up a feast that changes based on the seasons and the chef’s inspiration. It’s in the hip and unpretentious area of Canal Saint-Martin, so afterwards you can head for drinks at the super cool
Le Comptoir Général, or
Le Perchoir, one of the best rooftop bars in the city.
If you’re looking for a more chic French experience, book a table at
La Rotonde in Montparnasse. An old-time Parisian classic, it was
the
place to be in the 1920s for artists, writers and intellectuals. The interiors are all sexy red velvet, making it a great place for a dinner date. But, it’s also a good Sunday family lunch spot. My usual order is the escargots to start (snails in butter, garlic and parsley), then the steak tartare and fries (which I’m convinced is the best in Paris), and the profiteroles for dessert. Bon appétit!
As a slight curveball, I’d also argue that Paris has some of the best and most authentic Japanese food in Europe. So, when you’ve had your fill of French food, head to
Abri Soba for the best soba in town,
Kodawari Ramen to feel as if you’re in the middle of Tokyo’s Tsukiji market,
Yen for a mix of Japanese delicacies, or
Nodaiwa for an unagi tasting menu. For a high-end sushi omakase experience, book
Jin on Rue de la Sourdière.
Where’s the best place to go for drinks in Paris?
My favorite area to go for drinks is
Le Marais. To start a night out, head to the
Mary Celeste for wine and oysters, then make your way to
Candelaria or
Little Red Door for cocktails. Or, seek out the trendy
Mezcaleria hidden in the back of the
1K hotel.
For more casual bar hopping, head instead to
Le Mauri7,
Le Syndicat or
Chez Jeannette on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. Expect some fun conversations, and flirting if you’re in the market for it, with the locals.
Where’s the best place to get a coffee in Paris?
Although
Café de Flore is well-known to tourists, it is still a Parisian landmark worth checking out. The terrace there is one of the best places to sit for breakfast, lunch or just a coffee, while you watch the fashionable crowd pass by.
I’m personally more of a tea drinker, and I love going to
Ladurée on Rue Bonaparte. Sit in the tea salon and order one of their delicious tea blends to eat with their famous macarons or pastries.
Another gorgeous tea house is
Marriage Frères, Rive Gauche on Rue des Grands-Augustins, where you can also visit their tea store and museum. It’s known as the ‘shangri-la temple of tea’ in Paris for good reason.
A hidden gem for Japanese tea in Paris is
Ogata store, bar and restaurant on Rue Debelleyme. With a soothing wooden interior, it’s like walking into a contemporary Tokyo tea house. It’s a great place to buy the most beautiful tea accessories, and they also host tea workshops. Make sure to book in advance if you want to sit in.
For me, hot chocolate is one of the most special things you can drink in Paris. It’s served rich and thick, with whipped cream on the side.
Carette or
Angelina Paris are my go-to hot chocolate places.
Where do you love to shop in Paris?
The best department store, in my opinion, is
Le Bon Marché. I would compare it to Barneys NYC in style and selection (RIP Barneys!). It has all the best brands, fabulous accessories, shoes, jewelry, and one of the best lingerie sections of any department store, ever. For that effortlessly chic Parisian look, look to
Rouje,
Ba&Sh,
Sezane,
Iro,
Princesse Tam Tam and
Soeur. And, while you’re there, make sure you stop at the food court, La Grande Épicerie, for classic French groceries. I usually head straight to the truffle-themed counter.
For more unique Parisian shopping, head to the
Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen. It’s one of the biggest flea markets in the city, where you’ll find everything from antiques to vintage fashion. It’s only open on Saturdays and Sundays, and is on the outskirts of Paris, but it’s easy to get to – just take Métro Line 4 to Porte de Clignancourt.
Where are the best galleries, museums, architectural landmarks, etc. to get a hit of culture in Paris?
My favorite collection to see in Paris is the
Pinault Collection at the Bourse de Commerce. It’s newly opened and is truly one of the most spectacular collections of contemporary art – not to be missed!
Some of the best commercial contemporary art galleries in Paris include:
Perrotin,
Almine Rech,
Thaddeus Ropac,
David Zwirner,
Kamel Mennour, and
Marian Goodman. They are all around Le Marais area, free to visit, and open Tuesday to Saturdays. For art foundations or non-profit spaces, head to
Fondation Cartier,
Fondation LVMH,
Palais de Tokyo, or
Le Centre Pompidou.
As Paris is full of museums, an easy mistake to make is to only go to the famous ones, like
Musée d’Orsay and
Musée du Louvre. I’d recommend seeking out the smaller museums, like the Musée Rodin, Musée Picasso or Musée Yves Saint Laurent. Plus, Musée des Art Décoratifs, for fashion.
Where to work out in Paris?
My absolute favorite yoga studio is
Jivamukti Yoga on Canal Saint-Martin. Walking in, I immediately feel like I’ve entered an oasis of calm and peace. Jivamukti is a yoga school that was started in NYC and includes strong ashtanga-inspired classes, with some chanting and meditation. You always leave having had a good workout for the body and mind. And, they have classes in English.
Paris is also an excellent place to run outdoors. Running along ‘Les Quais’ or the edge of the Seine is completely free of cars and allows you to see some of Paris’ most beautiful landmarks. Or, take a long walk in one of the city’s parks. Some of my favorites include
Le Jardin du Luxembourg,
Le Jardin des Plantes, or following Canal Saint-Martin all the way up to the Parc de la Villette.
Where to party in Paris?
My favorite club in Paris is
Silencio, designed by film director David Lynch. You’ll have to make the effort to get in (no sneakers, no jeans), and prepare for some pricey cocktails, but it’s worth it to experience the surrealist interior design inspired by Lynch’s films. At weekends there’s a DJ and the dancefloor is always packed, but during the week it’s a quieter cocktail bar.
If you’re a fan of electronic music, check
Resident Advisor to see who is playing – the secret warehouse parties never fail. For big clubs, there’s
Rex Club for techno,
The Yoyo inside the Palais de Tokyo, the
Concorde Atlantique on a boat on the Seine, or Badaboum.
Any extra Paris tips that we need to know?
For the most Instagrammable patisserie in town, go visit
Cedric Grolet. He creates the most imaginative cakes that look way too good to eat. Although, of course, they taste delicious.
